Explore Birmingham’s civil rights history & so much more
Learn more about civil rights history in Birmingham, Alabama, but don’t miss its deep industrial roots, great food, and a downtown park called City Walk BHAM that should be a model for every city.
Birmingham, Alabama’s civil rights history tells the story of a 20th-century nation in turmoil, progress, change, and development. You won’t want to miss exploring that history on a visit to Birmingham. Be forewarned: It’s not all lollipops and rainbows. You will hurt inside, shake your head in shock, and even shed a few tears. However, you will walk away with admiration for what the citizens of the city did to stand up for their rights. Don’t stop there, however, on a visit to Birmingham. This southern city will offer great food, industrial history, and green spaces in a city that is not standing still.
Civil Rights education: “Never forget”
Any exploration of civil rights history must start with the outstanding Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, established by the National Park Service in 2017. The institute is part of the Birmingham Civil Rights National Monument and promotes understanding of the importance of the civil rights movement in Birmingham.
Why is that important? History keeps repeating itself “because we are not listening,” Barry McNealy, historical content expert, told me. “The wonderful thing about life is you have a chance to change.”
He points out the institute is not about black civil rights, because there is no such thing; it’s just about civil rights. Take your time at the institute – you may need a couple of hours to take in all the exhibits that walk you through history. Notice how the walkway through the rooms moves you uphill the entire time, a subtle reminder of the struggle over the years. If you can get a tour with McNealy, do it. He is a fountain of philosophical tidbits and historical insights.
Also, part of the approximately four-block National Monument is the 16th Street Baptist Church, conveniently located right across the street from the institute. It was organized in 1873 as the First Colored Baptist Church and was the first black church in Birmingham. As struggles increased, the church gained national headlines when a bomb exploded in the church in 1963, killing four young girls there for Sunday school.
Take a tour at the church, and then walk around it, trying to imagine the tragedy and shock of four girls in white dresses being killed. Several Ku Klux Klansman convicted have since died, although several escaped punishment for years.
Kelly Ingram Park, also part of the National Monument, is diagonally across the street. At the corner across from the church is a moving statue of the four girls killed.
Then, take some time to walk around the park and consider the many statues depicting the struggle for civil rights. When police attacked demonstrators in 1963, many were along the edge of the park. You can also access a cell phone tour to help you understand what each piece means.
As demonstrations continued with thousands of what they call “foot soldiers,” police filled jails with mass arrests of adults, and the call was put out for children to join the struggle. Hundreds came out, and the police sent police dogs after them and shot high-pressure fire hoses at them. Today, the so-called Children’s Crusaders have their own organization and meeting place – and they are an outspoken bunch.
“I wanted to be a part of that change,” Nadine Smith, one of the Children’s Crusaders, told me. She was 12 at the time of the demonstrations.
On a visit to Birmingham, you’ll also want to follow street signs that are part of the city’s Civil Rights Trail. In the city, you can follow several routes, each representing a different part of the struggle. Start at Kelly Ingram Park to follow the A route for the march to the government center.
Industrial history and parks: key to the city’s growth
Once you’ve spent a few days learning about the civil rights struggles and the courage of the people there, you can visit a few other major Birmingham sights.
Sloss Furnaces Birmingham
The biggest and perhaps most important industrial history site in Birmingham is Sloss Furnaces National Historic Landmark. Driving along Highway 11, you can’t miss the towering chimneys, rusty furnaces, and abandoned equipment to the south. They rest on the property of what was once the largest manufacturer of pig iron in the world and remains a monument to the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century. I had the pleasure of spending three nights photographing the industrial park; however, a daytime visit will also allow you to wander the walkways to learn about the United States’ history.
Red Mountain Park Birmingham 25
After you’ve seen urban industrial remains, it’s time to wander out to Red Mountain Park. Although it is an escape from the concrete jungle only minutes from town, there is so much more there than its 1,500 forested acres laced with trails. The area was called “red mountain” for good reason: The hills had a wealth of hematite in the dirt, part of which helped feed Sloss and the growing country’s industrial hunger for iron. The last mine there closed in 1962, and the land remained untouched until the park's development in 2012. There are relics and ruins of mining sites scattered around the entire park.
You can’t miss seeing Mr. Vulcan from almost anywhere in the city core. The ginormous, 50-ton cast iron statue of a bearded man with a bare bottom towers from the hill in Vulcan Park and is the largest such statue in the United States. And it’s been there since the 1930s, after being created in 1904 for the World’s Fair. Considered the symbol of Birmingham, Vulcan is the god of fire and forge, thus representing the city’s industrial history.
The park offers a view over the city, perfect for watching sunset or sunrise, and provides a place for short walks or picnics. A small museum also tells the story of the park and the city. Overwhelming in its size and breadth of offerings is City Walk BHAM, a beautiful space where all the city truly does connect. Once a run-down strip of land under a freeway, the area was transformed and opened in 2022 after eight years of planning. Find 10 blocks of green space, trails, sports fields, skate park, ball courts, food trucks, art haven, and just plain fun. Busy at night, too. Dance parties? Sure. Fitness classes? Why not. Senior citizen meetups? Of course. Urban skate park cool? Oh yeah….
And how about a dash of quirk?
Juxtaposed with civil rights education and industrial history, quirky experiences don’t lack in Birmingham either. Two such slightly off-beat spots would seem to be better suited in some hip East Coast city; nonetheless, here they are in Alabama’s largest metro area:
>> Miracle pop-up holiday bar – Whoa, you think your great Aunt Alice was into holiday décor. Just you wait. This holiday special, formerly at Queen’s Park bar where I enjoyed it, has moved. No matter. Prepare to be overwhelmed with the Christmas spirit. OK, maybe not overwhelmed -- perhaps “inundated” is a better word. That holiday pop-up bar has since moved to Hold Your Horses on 24th Street. Yup, a Miracle on 24th Street!
>> A story about Birmingham can’t be complete without a mention of Jim Reed Books, a.k.a. the Museum of Fond Memories. A quirky island in the middle of downtown, the bookstore is much more than books, although there are hundreds of thousands of those wedged into every space possible, dust be damned. Jim is incorrigible and just can’t say “no” to a piece of collectible memorabilia. Remember, one man’s junk is another man’s treasure, and Jim takes that adage seriously.
Jim arrived in the ‘80s to this very spot in downtown. “It was a wasteland,” he said.
“I wanted to be here,” he said, “right where a good bookstore would be – in the middle of nowhere.”
Birmingham isn’t the middle of nowhere anymore.
Disclosure: Therese Iknoian was hosted for select parts and activities of this trip by INBirmingham. Any reviews, mentions, and opinions here are our own and are not approved, provided, or otherwise endorsed or influenced by INBirmingham or any of the attractions mentioned.
